SUMELA MONASTERY | Virgin Mary monastery

Perched high in the forested cliffs of mount Karadag above Altindere village in Trabzon sits the monastery of Sumela. Sumela was the most important and prestigious monastery during the time of the Trapezuntine Empire. Legend has it that the monastery was founded after the Virgin Mary appeared to the Athenian monk Barnabas in a dream. Barnabas found an icon (said to be painted by Saint Luke) of the Virgin Mary matching that of the one in his dream and built a monastery around the site of his discovery during the 6th century. The icon was said to possess miraculous powers and this has led to many people making pilgrimages to the site including Turkish Sultans.

Most of the monastery that can be seen today dates from the 13th and 14th centuries when several monarchs from the Komnenos dynasty had their coronations in the monastery.

During this time the monastery received an income from imperial funds. In 1461, after the invasion of Sultan Mehmed II, it was granted protection and privileges which were renewed by following sultans and so remained a place of pilgrimage up until the 19th century.

Sumela was evacuated in 1923 along with all the other Greek Orthodox monasteries due to the population exchanges between Greece and Turkey after the first world war. During 1929 the monastery was gutted by fire and a number of treasures including the icon of the Virgin were rehoused in the new monastery of Sumela in northern Greece. Although the monastery has suffered from a large amount of vandalism and decay there still remain some interesting fescoes depicting stories from the bible and the life of Jesus which date from the 14th and 15th centuries and also some cave paintings that remain in very good condition.

The monastery is spread over five stories and contains a central courtyard, chapels, a sacred spring, kitchens, guesthouse library and a rock church. The Turkish authorities started to renovate and rebuild the monastery in 1993. Although the monastery may not be in mint condition there are always the breathtaking views over the valley to entertain the visitor. Sumela is surrounded by a national park which provides beautiful scenery.

The monastery can be reached easily and cheaply either by a 25 – 30 minute walk through the forest or by taxi or minibus from the village. Private tours are also available and run daily from Afacan and Usta travel agencies in Trabzon. The tour price includes a return trip on a minibus and a stop for a cup of tea but admission to the monastery is paid seperately.

Recommended places to stay include the Sumela Garden Hotel or the Kayalar Turistik Dinleme Tesisleri.
 

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